Last week I was invited by the Cherry Marketing Institute to join them and a few others at the Cherry Festival in Traverse City, Michigan. I haven’t visited in over 10 years and have always heard how beautiful Michigan is in the summer but the real reason I wanted to go was because I’ve never once had a Tart Cherry. That’s right, I said it.  Sure, I know Bings and Raniers and all our other delicious sweet cherry varietals but a true sour Michigan Cherry had always escaped me. And after spending a few days with cherry experts, researchers, growers and enthusiasts I know why: they’re just too fragile and don’t ship well. At least not in their fresh state. But more about that later.

Without a doubt these are the cherries I will forever dream of. I’m not knocking my West Coast fruit but these tart cherries have a complexity, depth and certain zing that I’ve never tasted. Picking Montmorency and Balaton cherries from the tree knocked my socks off, and if you can imagine tasting spicy notes with the softest, most tender flesh then you’re close to understanding just how good they are. The colors vary from deep crimson to yellow to a bright atomic red that appears to glow in the dark, enabling you to spot the tiny fruit on the tree from quite a distance. They’re not sour like citrus but mildly tart and perfect for pie making. And more on that later, too.

After we arrived we headed to the Boat House Restaurant, nestled on the peninsula overlooking the bay. Dinner was late in the evening (according to my old man standards!) but you’d never know it as the beautiful bright sun sets so much later up north. In fact, these photos were taken at 8:40 at night! It was a wonderful meal that included Michigan cherries in every course—naturally–and it ended with Cherries Jubilee over ice cream. I always hear people talk about Northern Michigan being so beautiful but until you’re sitting smack dab in the middle of it in July it’s just hard to comprehend. This was a beautiful place with bucolic views and groves of deep lush green trees. Farmhouses dot the roads and rest across docks that go on forever into the lake. I’ll tell you this: let me win the lottery and I could easily spend my summers here. I’m not kidding. But a town is only as wonderful as its people. And the folks of Traverse City made me feel so at home. Gracious, polite and engaging, I almost forgot what it was like to have strangers make you feel so welcome and treat you like family. Add their jovial spirit with my chatty ways and you can see why I didn’t want to leave.

Our guide for the trip was Phil Korson, President of the Cherry Marketing Institute, the national cherry organization that helps promote all things tart cherries. It is an organization comprised of growers and processors across the US. Phil was a wonderful resource, answering our questions about cherries and explaining how the factors of sun, wind, heat and cold winters all determine what kind of crop the cherry trees will yield. He took us to meet Don and Ann Gregory, farmers who have been growing tart cherries for many years. We toured the cherry orchards, stopping for photo moments that included beautiful scenic views and quick sneaks of fresh hanging cherries right off the tree.

Don Gregory

Now you’ll have to excuse me for my lack of harvesting know-how but apparently shaking a cherry tree isn’t actually a euphemism for something else! Who knew? After a quick lesson we all took turns shaking the tree and harvesting the fruit. It was a remarkably old-fashioned way of removing cherries from a tree. You simply shake. Of course there are machines that do this but you realize how gentle one has to be when working with cherries. These little babies are remarkably fragile!

Cherries land on a conveyor belt after shaking and splash into very cold water. in fact, they stay in fresh cold water at every step. Nevermind the guy sitting down, I heard he got fired shortly after this photo was taken.

We also visited the Northwest Michigan Horticultural Research Station, a multidisciplinary horticultural facility that focuses on fruit production and specializes in tart and sweet cherry research. You name it and these folks do it: horticulture, botany, plant pathology, entomology, agricultural engineering and economics, the list goes on. We met with Dr. Nikki Rothwell who told us all about what happens in Cherrylandia (I made up a name for this cute facility because it rests on top of a hill overlooking acres and acres of fruit trees and I want to live there so naturally I had to give it name).  If you’re looking for cutting edge research regarding tart cherries then look no further than Nikki and this facility. She was so sweet and gave us more cherry information than my brain could absorb. However, I did retain the fact that she travels to Eastern Europe to study trees which I thought was remarkably sexy and then the conversation veered into Ukrainian and Polish desserts made with cherries and I just about lost it.

Dr. Nikki Rothwell of the Northwest Michigan Horticultural Research Station and an area dedicated to the study of insects that just happen to love cherries. Sharpen your pencils, insects, there WILL be a test.

After our agricultural lesson we headed back to the main building where there was a festival. Local cherry vendors and events for kids were happening inside while outside I tried my best at a cherry pit spitting competition. I must tell you I didn’t do too bad but no where near as close as my new friend Chef Nathan who — get this — spit a cherry pit 42.7 feet across the parking lot. Seriously!

The sweetest gals sampling cherry juice from inside a Giant Cherry and "Cherry Underwood" as drawn by Georgia, age 9. I normally detest anthropomorphism in general but this is like the cutest thing ever. Work those heels, girl!

One of our visits included Cherry Republic in Glen Arbor. This gorgeously-manicured cherry compound houses a cafe, a tasting room, a shop and outdoor seating where we indulged in all things cherry. I’m not quite sure how I feel about cherry wine though and I’ll leave it at that. But the food and treats were delightful. It was a beautiful space and we had a great lunch and a chat with Cherry Republic’s owner Bob Sutherland. I actually didn’t want to leave.

A few images from Cherry Republic. I could easily obsess over that Cherry Cream Soda.

Ok, so back to Cherry Pie. I’ve gone my whole life declining the offers of cherry pie. It just was never my thing, you know? Canned gumminess nestled in a mediocre crust has never been my favorite but being in Michigan certainly changed all that. It was a pie epiphany, a moment that will forever change my life. Real tart cherries, the perfect balance of tart and sweet, and I owe it all to this man, Bob Sutherland.

Bob Sutherland, owner of Cherry Republic

Bob said it took years to perfect his Cherry Pie. There’s not only the flavor to contend with but also the texture and mouthfeel which is important in a pie. And this right here folks, this is the real deal. This is the pie I will not be eating in California, no matter how hard I try. Michigan cherries do not travel well as their flesh is too delicate and the pits move too much during shipping, causing them to bust through the flesh itself. I’ve heard Washington state grows some tart cherries and if that’s the case I’ll fly up for pie. Or fly back to Michigan next summer because folks, it’s that good. I now understand the charm and appeal of tart cherry pie and it’s something I will never forget. In the meantime I’ll have to satisfy myself with dried cherries, juice and candies but folks, it’s just not the same. Crying, I am.

The Real Deal: this is what all cherry pies want to be when they grow up.

Thank you to the Cherry Marketing Institute and Phil Korson, Weber Shandwick and the ever-so-amazing Caitlin Solway, Bob Sutherland, Don and Ann Gregory (I miss those cookies and cherry tea!) as well as all my fellow cherry travelers. A very special thanks to the folks of Traverse City, Michigan for being one of these sweetest places on the planet.  You all have a place to stay in Los Angeles if you visit. Not all at the same time, I mean. That’d be crazy.

And it’s not all about flavor! And all kidding aside, cherries are packed with some amazing health properties. Read about them at Choose Cherries.

With the holidays in full swing I just wanted to remind you that you have a little bit of time left if you’re entering the Chocolate Adventure Contest from Scharffen Berger! The grand prize includes $10,000 for the winning recipe in both the Sweet and Savory categories and some swell second place prizes. We’ll be judging on creativity, taste, ease of preparation and whether the recipe reflects a spirit of adventure and yes, I’m one of the judges!

You’ll find more information at Chocolate Adventure Contest along with the complete rules of the contest and how to submit your recipe. You have until January 3, 2010. You can read my previous post about the contest here.

I can’t wait to taste all the amazing entries.

When you live, breathe, eat and sleep food, it can sometimes be hard to muster excitement. This doesn’t mean I’ve grown weary of food and all it involves, it just means that it takes a little extra or a tiny bit of sumthin’ sumthin’ to really knock my socks off. Not that they need constant knocking off. They don’t. I’m happy with plain most of the time.

The pleasures of food and discovery happen when you least expect it. I can remember a moment 20 years ago when I had my first Meyer lemon and I thought the earth would swallow itself. My mind was expanding with each taste of that glorious citrus and I knew life would never be the same. The same can be said of having Jamon Iberico de bellota, a proper supplì, even Wisconsin cheese curds for the very first time. I can count those moments on one hand.

Last month in Italy I had another one of those moments at dinner. It was a fish dish with a very simple aioli––or so I thought. It turns out that the aioli was made with Colatura, an extremely flavorful Italian condiment made from fish and salt. My eyes must have given my excitement away as our dinner neighbor Fabio looked at me and said “It’s Colatura. There’s Colatura in here.” He explained how it’s made, telling me fish sauce has been used for thousands of years in Italy.

“You mean like Garum?” I asked.

“Exactly” he replied.

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I’ve read that Colatura is a relative of Garum, that pungent fish sauce made by fermenting fish in the bright Italian sun. But if Garum is the loud in-your-face uncle, Colatura is the mannered and finessed younger cousin. It’s made by taking anchovies and layering them with salt in wooden barrels. A weight is placed on top and as the fish lose their liquid it becomes mixed with salt and collected underneath, resulting in a light amber liquid that’s lighter in color and flavor than your standard fish sauce. It takes a few months to gather the essence but it’s worth the time and effort.

Now before you email me and call me an Asian fish sauce hater, please note that I’m a fan of all types of fish sauces. They make their way into my cooking and if you know me I put Nuoc Mam on anything and everything (flank steak and potatoes, watch out). But with Colatura, well, it’s magic. What else explains how fish and salt go in but Grand Umami Magic comes out? It truly is a magical genie in a bottle.

Regretfully I left Italy without picking up a bottle (I think I was drunk at the time). I kept kicking myself after I got home and realized nothing would work in its place. I wanted some and I wanted it badly. Luckily Zingerman’s came to the rescue, stocking bottles with a price that reminds you of how special it is just in case your tongue forgets. But you know what? It’s totally worth it. There’s nothing like it.

I used mine as Zingerman’s recommended and mixed it with a little olive oil, red chili flakes and parsley. Spaghetti cooked al dente was tossed with the fragrant golden mixture and I felt like I was back in Naples. There’s just enough fish essence to create intriguing flavor and add salt to the pasta,  similar to adding an anchovy to dressing or sauces.

I have vowed never to be without this stuff in my pantry. Obsessed? No way.

Spaghetti with Olive Oil & Colatura

Trust your cooking instincts on this recipe, folks. Cook your spaghetti as you like and toss with a sauce made of 3 tablespoons high quality olive oil, 1 tablespoon Colatura, chopped garlic, chopped parsley and red chile flakes. You can adjust the quantities based on your preferences but start light on the Colatura. A little goes a long way. I haven’t tried this on greens like spinach or chard yet but I can only imagine how delicious it is on vegetables.

Matt’s Notes: I haven’t seen it in many specialty or gourmet markets here but purchasing Colatura from Zingerman’s is a safe bet. Those folks are awesome.

We’ve just returned from a quick trip to Rome. It was an amazing adventure filled with food, wine, stellar company and a few amazing side trips that I’ll be blogging about shortly. But in the meantime, please enjoy this guide to not letting your eyes and stomach get the best of you while roaming around the city. Because folks, I only have your best interests in mind and would hate for you to pack on an additional nine pounds  (you read that right) while visiting this amazing city. Let this be a lesson to you and plan accordingly. I happen to do gluttony very, very well. I’m sure the Pope would have something to say about that.

In all sincerity there is pure pleasure in being surrounded by people so passionate about the food of their country.  We were never short of suggestions and everyone was so gracious about explaining what makes their food so special. For me it was an eye-opening experience and one I hope to relive again very soon.
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Ignore the Three Dinner Rule

Was it sheer excitement? Stupidity? Taking advantage of a good thing? You decide. But having three dinners in one night might have something to do with it. But could you blame me? With our useful guide and best friend Kristina we found ourselves stopping for pizza on the street, salumi, cheese and wine (with snacks!) and some gelato before ever making it to the restaurant. And then dessert.  I’ve been on Tapas Crawls in Spain before but I really outdid myself here.

Don’t Drink Five Cappuccinos A Day Out Of The Realization That You’ll Never Have Anything So Perfect Ever Again.

And this doesn’t even touch the shots of espresso I had after that. But when you are in a place that does coffee so remarkably well, each drink served with such perfection you can’t say no. And that seems to be the way things go for me in Rome: familiar and comforting but executed perfectly, like a dream where nothing bad happens. That doesn’t mean one is immune from bad food in Rome (a dinner of mediocre pizza confirms this) but chances are you can’t go too wrong with coffee here.  And because of this I’ve been sufficiently caffeinated the entire time. Hallelujah.

Skip Eating Tons Of Gelato For “Research” Purposes.

I’m in the food business. I have a food blog. I owe it to myself to eat as much gelato as possible so that I have a decent point of reference when discussing it with others, right? It was this excuse that I hid behind as I sampled my way through gelaterias across Rome. And while some were significantly better than others I will most likely never tire of ANYTHING. NOCCIOLA. EVER.

Lose Control When Passing Every Pasticceria

You could do what I was not able to do and pass every pastry shop along the way, stopping only when you are hungry for something sweet. Or you could dart into each shop “just because”, picking up a handful of pastries because who knows if you’ll ever see them again. My hands-down favorite was the Plum & Cherry Crostata from Innocenti, flat little tarts of crisp buttery pastry sandwiched around tangy fruit jam.  And those brutti ma buoni cookies were absolute heaven.

Pizza On Every Street Does Not Mean EAT Pizza On Every Street. Or Don’t Let That Supplì Go To Waste.

Pizza Culture in Rome was quite different than what I am used to. Because of this I needed to stop several times throughout the day and sample as much Pizza al Taglio  as I could fit into my mouth. These large, long pieces of pizza are cut to order, depending on how much or little you want. A favorite was Broccoli e Salsiccia and Marinara with anchovies. Wrapped up in paper, these square pieces of pizza would have satisfied my hunger perfectly had I ever been hungry. I never was and I wonder why.

You Needn’t Stop In Every Wine Bar In Rome Just Because You Can.

I told myself that between photographing the ancient ruins and walking for miles that I worked up a wicked thirst that could not be quenched by water but only special grapes that have been pressed, aged, bottled and served in glasses with stems. And my god my little self-lie worked! Each day there were quick visits to local wine bars, some hip and trendy and some just regular spots. I stuck to Italians the entire trip (natch!) and not once made notes of what I drank. Sad, isn’t it? Guess I must return and do it all over again, this time with pencil and paper.

Overloading On Fruits & Vegetables Doesn’t Count As Gluttony. Or Does It?

And that is because they are good for you! And you know what makes them better? When they’re battered and fried.  Let’s just say I became close friends with lots of Fritto Misto. And yes, I’d do it all over again in a second. Now if you’ll excuse me I must unbutton my pants.

Thanks to my friend Kristina for the piggish photo of me licking an anchovy off my lip. More Italy to come shortly!

I don’t know about you but I’m still coming down from the high of last week’s festivities at BlogHer 09. The event in San Francisco exceeded everyone’s expectations and it was so humbling to be in the presence of so much talent. I spoke on two panels about photography with two of my favorite authors and bloggers, Heidi Swanson and Lara Ferroni.

On the tail end of this amazing experience I wanted to announce some exciting news: I’m joining John Scharffenberger, Chef Elizabeth Falkner, Alice Medrich and Tutti Foodie’s own Lisa Schiffman as judges for The Chocolate Adventure Contest. This contest from Scharffen Berger and Tutti Foodie encourages you to create an inventive recipe for any course––appetizer, entreé, dessert, or even a drink––using Scharrfen Berger chocolate and at least one adventure ingredient.

And what are these ingredients, you ask?

• Fresh mint (any varietal)
• Crystallized ginger
• Pandan leaf
• Banana leaf
• Sumac
• Raw honey
• Cacao nibs
• Fresh or whole dried chili pepper
• Malbec
• Peanut butter
• Black-eyed peas
• Rice flour
• Papaya
• Cumin
• Paprika (any varietal)
• Smoked sea salt

Ok, so now you can see why I’m just a wee bit thrilled to join these amazing folks and taste the one-of-a-kind creations I know you’ll create? The grand prize includes $10,000 for the winning recipe in both the Sweet and Savory categories and some swell second place prizes. We’ll be judging on creativity, taste, ease of preparation and whether the recipe reflects a spirit of adventure.

You’ll find more information at Chocolate Adventure Contest along with the complete rules of the contest and how to submit your recipe. You have until January 3, 2010 so please, get on this!

The official kick off is tomorrow with Chef Elizabeth Falkner in New York at The Institute of Culinary Education. If you were lucky enough to sign up and attend in person or via the webcast you’ll hear all about the event.

Have fun!

P.S. Please excuse my very large round face on this page. Clearly I will spend more time with Photoshop’s Liquefy next time.

I’m going to try not to use words like “Yipeeee!” and “wowwza!” to describe how excited I am about this. Some food bloggers, a few you may know, have teamed up with Club Med in Ixtapa, Mexico for the first ever Food Blog Camp.

This event in January includes Diane Cu and Todd Porter, Michael and Donna Ruhlman, me and my partner-in-crime Adam Pearson, Dianne Jacob, Jaden Hair, Elise Bauer and David Lebovitz.

Seminars include Food Writing With Your Senses, Best Blogging Practices, Building A Better Blog with Multimedia, From Blog To Book, and even Food Photography and Food Styling.  You can read more about them on the Club Med Insider site here.

In addition to the seminars there will also be some pretty nifty activities like a walking tour of the Zijuatanejo market, a visit to the fisherman’s market, as well as meet-and-greets with local farmers to talk about their sustainable agricultural practices. I’m pretty sure there will be some gorgeous sunsets thrown in there for good measure, too.

Hope to see you there! And make sure to check below to find out how to win a trip to the Food Blogger Camp!

To sign up, visit the Food Blog Camp booking page.

1. At the bottom of the page, click where it says Click Here to Book

2. Use Login: blogger, Password: 160606, to get the special ‘Food Blog Camp’ discount price of $599 to $999 US based on double-occupancy for this all-inclusive trip.

3. There will be a drop-down menu so choose ‘Ixtapa’, and type in the dates: January 9-16, and 7 days for length of stay. You can come for less days, or all of them. (3-day packages are $599.) The booking page will open showing the discounted price just underneath the regular price. (It will say “Best Available Offer: Food Blogger Camp”) A slightly-higher price may be shown if you’re basing your search on single-occupancy. The $999 US 7-day price is based on double-occupancy.

Other questions*? Call 1-888-WebClub

Win a Free Trip!

Club Med is giving away a place free to one participant. Included will be all seminars, room, meals, and beverages. Airfare from anywhere in the continental United States is included. To enter, all you need to do is to leave a comment here, and if you wish, at any of the websites of the other participants listed below, and/or by following Club Med Insider on Twitter.

The more sites that you post on, the more your chances are of winning. Although you can comment at each of the sites, only one comment per site. Entrants who make more than one comment per site will be disqualified.

SteamyKitchen.com

DavidLebovitz.com

WhiteonRiceCouple.com

DianneJacob.com

Ruhlman.com

Clubmedinsider.com

(Please note that due to time differences, the various participants will be posting their entries at various times. Kindly be patient and when they do post, you’re welcome to leave a comment there to enter the contest.)

The contest begins now and ends on Sunday September 13, 2009 at 11:59 p.m EST (US). A winner will be drawn at random from the participating websites and the Twitter followers on or around September 15, 2009. Winner may bring a guest for the discounted price of a double occupancy room. Their airfare is not included.

This event is open to all food bloggers and the winning includes attendance at all the seminars. When you leave your comment, please leave a link to your blog in the URL.

Please read the contest rules before entering. If you do register and end up being the winner, your payment will be refunded.

For more information, check out the Food Blogger Camp website.

And please note that due to the number of entries I won’t be able to answer any questions personally about the contest. For booking or other questions, please call 1-888-WebClub

(and the photo above was taken earlier in the year in the Bahamas and isn’t representative of who will be in Mexico. Although it’s pretty darn close!)

Images of San Juan and Culebra

I just returned from a very quick trip to Puerto Rico. My complete post on eating will be up shortly but in the meantime I’d like to offer you my favorite Top 10 Moments from my weekend in La Isla Del Encanto.

10. La Gente, La Gente, La Gente

Show me some nice happy smiling faces from any place I’m about to visit and I’ll show you a good trip. Those two things go hand in hand, San Juan was no exception. There is that warm generosity and respeto you find in Latin culture and throwing beautiful beaches and warm tropical water into the mix can only make you happier. Add to this citizens who are so extremely proud of their island and you can see why amazing people make it worth visiting.

9. Puerto Rico Food & Wine Festival

Getting to see and taste a side of Puerto Rico I never knew existed was amazing. The 3rd Annual Puerto Rico Food & Wine Festival was held at the PR Convention Center, complete with vendors and exhibits that reminded me of the annual G’Day LA event put on Australia Week or a small Fancy Foods exhibit. Emerill Lagasse was this year’s big draw along with Wilo Benet, Eric Villegas, Rafael Barrera and Alexis Torres. I must admit that I could have used more Puerto Rican vendors in the mix but I did appreciate the free-flowing wine and most of the food. Highlights included lots of pig and chicharrones (could you ever go wrong?) and a Peruvian pulpo (octopus) in an olive sauce that was out of this world. Imagine a slightly purple cream sauce that surrounded tender bites of octopus with a very definitive kalamata olive flavor. Everyone in the group kept returning for more. You have to see Adam’s photo to understand it.

8. Mofongo

Monfongo is what I call a perfect food. I’ve spent many years eating good-but-not-quite-perfect monfongo. Who knew I actually had to travel to San Juan to get it? We had lunch at Raices Restaurant and it was a delightful experience. Plantains are mashed and seasoned with garlic, olive oil and pork cracklings and served with shrimp, chicken or beef.  It’s tropical and familiar, garlicky and sweet, warm and cool,  everything I love about Latin food. We ate ours with beans and rice, topping it off with the small bowls of herbally chimichurri on the table. I was in heaven. Heavy? Yes. Perfect? Double Yes.

7. Amateur Gourmet

Hey, what’s with me having to travel 3,379 miles to the Caribbean just so I can finally meet Adam Roberts for the very first time? I’ve been reading him for years! Well no matter, it could have been March in New York so perhaps I’ll shut my mouth.  But now I know why he’s so popular, the guy is just adorable. And he was my snorkel buddy.We lovingly kvetched about blogging and shared family moments and culinary experiences while soaking in the happy tropical sunshine. We also compared farmer tans and while I certainly don’t mean to poke fun of adorable Jewish boys from New York City there really isn’t any excuse why this Mexican boy sported one, too. Que lastima.

6. Sangria

Ok, someone, anyone, please let me in on the secret of Sangria making in Puerto Rico. Is it something in the water? Every sip I savored was better than the last, a refreshing drink minus any of the cloying sugary sips  that seem to be so ubiquitous in sangria made by anyone other than yourself. Apparently I’m hanging out in bad restaurants in Los Angeles. I need to head back to San Juan I guess. It’s closer than Spain.

5. The View From My Hotel Room

I would have done without hot water, electricity and an extremely dreamy bed (but not wifi!) just for the view alone. And thanks to the Marriot I actually had all of the above. And pleeeeese people, ain’t nobody paying me to say this: the staff were super friendly, the room was super clean and the view was maaaaarvelous. Just watching the sunset from my balcony made the Red Eye worth it.

4. Flamenco Beach

I understand why ratings and caveats were thrown out before we reached this beach but honestly, no amount of “best of” lists or top-whatevers could have prepared me for this intimate expanse of beach. Flamenco Beach is located on Culebra Island, about 17 miles east from Puerto Rico. It was perfectly amazing with soft white sand and warm blue water and completely unexpected. I’ve seen some beaches in my lifetime and I gotta say this takes the cake.  Sorry, Galveston (laugh track goes here).

3. Snorkeling

I’ll be honest: our day was meant to be spent just a bit differently than it went down (see Amateur Gourmet for the sour, queasy proof) but that doesn’t mean I didn’t make the most of it! Nonsense! I stripped off my shirt, grabbed the snorkel and mask and jumped into some of the best water I’ve ever felt. It was warm, clear, and loaded with beautiful tropical fish and coral reefs. As I swam around I kept thinking “Boy, I’m gonna burn the shit out of my neck and shoulders and wow, I could sure go for some sushi right now.”

2 My travel companions

With apologies to my male readers of the heterosexual persuasion (all 4 of you and my father, I’m sure), I do believe one of life’s inequities for you involves me getting to meet and hang with gorgeous women all over the world. This trip was no different. And when I say gorgeous I really gorrrrrrgeous, and when I say gorrrrrgeous I mean reallllly gorrrrgeous. Not that I’m objectifying them because I’m not. This group of travel writers and public relations professionals made me feel like the luckiest man on earth. Because I am. And please do not get me started on Desiree, our organizer, as my heart flutters just being in her presence. She’s one special woman.

1. Luquillo Beach Kiosks

Tired, sundrunk and just drunk in general (just me, I mean) we made our way to Los Kioskos, located along Route 3 in Luquillo. This is the sort of place I dream of––rows and rows of garage-style restaurants open to the street, serving local food and drink. We worked our way from one end to the other, sampling local favorites like bacalaito and tostones con jueyes, my absolute favorite. It was so amazing to have such a delicious crash course in local food. As if I wasn’t stuffed enough we ended up at El Jefe Burgers, owned by Tim & Cheri Blackford who moved to Puerto Rico a few years ago and decided to open a restaurant that serves food they can’t get on the island. The burgers were delicious, the sides amazing, and the sangria out of this world. We sat and ate burgers as it rained over the amazingly verdant terrain and I don’t think I’ve ever been as happy as I was in that moment of time.

A very special thanks to Jody and Desiree for planning and being our guides and to the San Juan Marriot for making this all possible.  And Charyn, you rocked my world. Call me next time you’re in LA.

You know you’ve taken an amazing vacation when you’re so relaxed you can’t even form complete sentences nor sit up straight. And that’s exactly how I feel after my trip to Buenos Aires, a city I love so very very much.  This third trip to Argentina’s capital was a bit different for me, filled with amazing traveling companions and a much more relaxed schedule. There were good meals and there were great meals. There were some duds, too. But more on that later.

Because a few of you have already emailed asking me how it went and if I have any recommendations I’m just gonna jump into this blog post. Consider it kinda scrapbooky and all over the place, ok? Oh, and I wrote a poem, too. Thank you. I love you.

»» Restaurants

Tegui «  Costa Rica 5852
Called the hottest spot currently in Palermo, this new joint is headed by the former chef of Casa Cruz Germán Martitegui. The tasting menu was great and creative but I did not take notes. I’m sorry. But I can tell you that it’s quite possibly one of the most beautiful spaces I’ve seen in quite some time. Super chic. The graffitied exterior and hyper modern outside door really made the designer in me weep. I’d certainly go back as it was one of my favorite meals in Buenos Aires.

Bahia Madero «  Alicia Moreau de Justo 430
No trip is complete without a visit to Casa Rosada and then a stroll down to Puerto Madero. It’s touristy (think Fisherman’s Wharf but not so out of control) but a great place for lunch. Bahia Madero is a great place to sit outdoors, people watch, have a glass of wine or five and enjoy some nice pasta dishes before returning to the task of sight-seeing.

Drinks at Faena «  445 Martha Salotti
Go ahead, be a lookie loo and have a few drinks in the hotel lounge. Located in Puerto Madero, it’s not in the part of town I’d want to stay in but for those business travelers seeking lux and quiet I’m sure this hits the spot. It’s really a gorgeous hotel. It’s too much for me but great to check out. I had a cocktail that tasted like an almond muffin topped with Barbasol. And I actually liked it.

Ponza «  Gorriti 5996
I know there is a shortage of seafood in Buenos Aires so I’m a bit reluctant to say this is a bad place; let’s just say it’s lackluster. While I appreciate its seafood-driven concept I’ll be the first to admit I have annoyingly high standards when it comes to fish. It was fresh, I’ll give them that. But perhaps you’ll like it when you find you just cannot eat another piece of meat.

Olsen «  5870 Gorriti
Olsen shows its wear and tear and may not be the darling it once was but in a town of beef it’s nice to have a change of pace. Great sandwiches and a perfect spot for brunch. Or just to come and drink. I love the space, I hated my bloody mary.

La Cabrera «  Cabrera 5099
Yes, it’s now completely overrun with tourists and packed to the gills, but this parrilla is worth checking out. Keep in mind that portions are insane and you’ll be best suited if you don’t eat a day before dinner.  I warned you. If you want to read more about it you can click here.

Grappa «  El Salvador 5800
Oh, I’m conflicted. The Pizza Pedant in me must go away — far, far away — for me to enjoy pizza in Argentina. It’s not that it’s bad, it’s just that it’s not the kind of pizza I enjoy. But the large, freshly grilled flatbread pizzas at Grappa hit the spot on Sunday night. A bit salty with too much cheese but it proves my point: put enough prosciutto and arugula on anything and I’ll eat it completely.

El Bar del Gallego «  Bonpland 1703
I’ve written about this place before and was ecstatic to find it now has its own Facebook group. And even after all these years this joint is still one of my favorite places in the world. Even if they made fun of us over and over and over and over again. Not much in terms of variety, but is that really necessary? Ojo de bife, a few Milanesas, some quilmes. You think you actually need anything else? I’m almost embarrassed to say I’ve been here about 15 times.

Osaka «  Soler 5608
Oh, Osaka, how I wanted to like you. Especially since you were so highly recommended by sooooooo many people.  Peruvian Japanese fusion is the rage, I understand this.  But you know what? I didn’t care for it. It just wasn’t there for me in terms of flavor, sophistication and taste. And while it might be a great place for a special evening out with friends it was too expensive and too trendy with lackluster service. My deconstructed ceviche saved the evening otherwise it would have been a complete bust. Remember, I live in Los Angeles where I can get my fill of crowded trendy places every night of the week and some of the best Asian food you’ll ever have.

La Vineria de Gualterio Bolivar «  Bolivar 865
From Food & Wine, May 2009: “Alejandro Diglio applies his training at Spain’s El Bulli to the bargain 10-course tasting menus in his San Telmo wine bar—with more than 70 local by-the-glass offerings.”  In my opinion there were some hits but mostly misses. That’s really all I’m going to say.

El Obrero « Caffarena 64
Nestled among the car repair shops and factories of La Boca is El Obrero, a gem filled with the working locals.  It’s the sort of restaurant that makes me cry. Framed photos and memorabilia adorn the walls but the real star is the food. We had no business ordering the insane amount of food and I’m in pain just thinking about our overindulgence but I’d do it all over again in a heartbeat. The tortilla de acelga, a Spanish tortilla filled with chard, was one of the best things I tasted the entire trip. And the tortilla with tomatoes and chorizo, too. And the pastas. Ok, everything. One of the absolute best restaurants in Buenos Aires, I’m telling you. But do take a cab to get there and to leave. You don’t want to wander around the neigborhood.

Standard «  Guatemala 2003
I’ve visited this place right after it opened a few years back and was happy to see that it’s still going strong. The menu has been tweaked, the lighting upped a bit, but the food here was just as delightful as before. The concept: a modern take on the venerable Argentine parrillas of the past, complete with gorgeous wood-paneled walls and waiters in retro sleek attire. Actually quite chic and tasteful and I highly recommend this spot.

Casa Saltshaker «  www.saltshaker.net
A delightful private dinner at Dan Perlman’s Casa Saltshaker was a nice change from the loud crowded restaurants of Buenos Aires. We’re all still talking about the soup and I have every intention of nagging him for a recipe, wink wink nudge nudge.

My friends + butcher shop + parrilla in our loft = two nights of dinners
So this isn’t a restaurant listing but having been completely in love with Argentina’s beef I wanted to get my hands on a few cuts and try grilling. I wanted to see how the cuts differed from what we get here, how the beef looks and feels and most importantly how it cooks differently. Grass fed from beginning to end, the beef is everything you’ve heard about and more. Completely different with the most sublime flavor.

Trattoria il Ballo del Mattone «  Gorritti 5934
I really don’t know how to describe this place. Part gallery, part bar with shows and music, part restaurant, this electic spot serves up good housemade pastas with some nice starters. Completely packed at 10pm with a gregarious crowd, the wait staff and service was delightful and we all couldn’t help but notice how friendly everyone was. We felt as if we stumbled into the space of a group of friends who decided to open a restaurant. It was a great change of pace and one of only places where we found organic Argentine wine on the menu.

La Fabrica Del Taco «  Gorritti 5062
We acted on Lisa’s twitter suggestion and headed to La Fabrica Del Taco for a quick lunch. I’m Mexican American, I’m from Texas, I like to think I have some experience in the Taco Department. Would I like it? Would I hate it? What would tacos be like down here? I’m happy to report that for the most part it was a delightful experience and one of the only place we could find anything with heat. I loved the Vulcan, a tostada with various toppings and the beans were the best thing on the menu. Dare I say I felt like I was back home for a split second? Thanks to this place I have learned to accept that Argentines do not like heat. I will no longer fight it.

Alvear Palace Brunch «  Avenida Alvear 1891
Sometimes it’s just fun to get all gussied up and head to a big fancy brunch where you’re served by waiters in white gloves. We’ve been told about the brunch at this exquisite hotel for ages and finally decided to pay a visit. I’m from the school of thought that a buffet is a buffet is a buffet but Alvear’s is far from pedestrian. Quite nice and fancy but maybe lost on this boy as I couldn’t stop flocking to the salads and raw vegetables after a week of eating in Buenos Aires. I did, however, take advantage of glasses of champagne at noon and again at 12:17, 12:42, 1:03, 1:16, 1:18, 1:40 and 1:52pm.

»» A Poem About Taxis

There is a beautiful dance
Of give and take
Of aggression and grace
When driving in Buenos Aires

Of filling a space
And ignoring the lines
To get you to your arrival

Bits and corpuscles
Flowing in arteries
No judgment, only speed

I’m glad I made it alive.

»» The Product That Prompted A Heated Discussion

File under: cultural (in)sensitivity, gone too far or not gone enough, stereotypes, no big deal, it’s a huge deal, I like her skirt, mixed emotions.

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»» You Gotta Love A Country When…

You can find Jamon Iberico-flavored chips and snacks and entire aisles devoted to the heavenly Dulce De Leche. And you even have to ask why I keep going back?

»» The World’s Tiniest Alfajor

From the tiny dessert tower at Alvear Palace. I can’t decide if it was cute or the world’s cruelest joke. I’ll get back to you on that.

»» And Some Random Shots To Close Out An Already Random & Scatterbrained Post

We had such an excellent time and can’t wait to return.  And Marcela, a million hugs and kisses from us. I can’t wait to make that dessert!

The best part about visiting Argentina, a country so rich with culture and tradition, is that you’re bound to create new discoveries with each trip. Last week it was something as simple as tasting a condiment for the first time that sent my brain into overdrive. Salsa Golf, a pale slightly orange spread with a salmon hue that straddles the line between mayonnaise and ketchup, appeared on our table when we ordered sandwiches in one of the high rise food courts of an ultra modern shopping mall in Buenos Aires.

“Whoa! Check this out! Oh my god! Salsa Golf!” Adam screamed immediately after emptying the packet next to his small mound of papas fritas. I could completely understand his enthusiasm.

Just so you know, I’m one of those people that gladly mixes ketchup and mayonnaise for french fries. And there’s absolutely no shame in my game. Having felt as if I just discovered Creamy Nirvana Delivered From The Heavens In A Condiment Packet, I felt like I needed to get to the bottom of Salsa Golf. I started asking around Buenos Aires and checked Wikipedia as well as Dan’s blog for clarification. He says it’s known as the national condiment of Argentina (next to Chimichurri, of course) and I can certainly see why. It’s wonderful on sandwiches, hearts of palm, french fries, potato chips, and just about anything else that is at home with a creamy dip. Other than a legend no one has really identified where it gets its name and unfortunately it’s rarely seen outside of South America.

After our Salsa Golf awakening we found ourselves strolling the aisles of Carrefour during an afternoon of shopping. I must say I’m happy that my traveling companions love checking out grocery stores when traveling as much as I do. At Carrefour there was an entire aisle dedicated to mayonnaise, mustards and barbecue sauces and then the jackpot!: an entire section devoted to Salsa Golf. I looked at my traveling companions and the idea hit us simultaneously- A Salsa Golf Tasting! And why not? We were staring at hundreds of packages and jars and bottles of the stuff, from store brands to generic to Hellman’s. We all agreed how much we immediately loved the stuff and knowing we’d never find it at home we thought we might as well get to know it as best as we could considering we’d probably never find it back home. An immersion course in Salsa Golf, if you will.

We filled our basket with various brands and headed back to the hotel. I think the staff caught on to our intentions when we starting asking them one by one about Salsa Golf. Do you like it? What do you eat it with? Do you have a favorite brand? What’s it best with? We told them about our Salsa Golf Taste Off 2009 and they delightfully offered to assist.

The Salsa Golf Taste Off 2009 Judges, clockwise: Brian L, Wine Marketing. Paul C., Wine Wholesaler. Dana R., Director of Online Community, NBC.com. Adam Pearson, Food Stylist. Aaron A., Buyer Amoeba Hollywood. Wade W., Whole Foods.

We planned and trained; we cleared our palates and made notes. We were serious about the SGTO 09 and meant business. And so did Home Hotel. They took our various brands, decanted and labeled them so that we wouldn’t know what we were tasting. Freshly fried french fries became the official food of the tasting and plenty of Quilmes made sure we were hydrated. But an added element of surprise? Home Hotel submitted their own house-made Salsa Golf into the tasting.

The blind tasting began with two groups. We chatted about texture, salinity, sweetness, which brands tasted nothing more than a simple mayo and ketchup blend, which brands had more depth, and how one version in particular had more dimension and flavor than the rest. We took notes as our friends at the hotel looked on. We drank beer. We drank more beer. I realized that taste testing is serious business, jars of fattening dressing or not.

After a group discussion I tallied the forms, noticing a clear winner. The ever delightful bartender Danny (who has quickly become a group favorite) then took our tallied forms and announced the winners. Now I know how those girls feel standing in front of Tyra Banks. And for the record I’d never trip in heels.

With 22 points, we all selected Danica brand as our least favorite in the tasting. The next was Hellman’s with 24.5 points, followed by Fanacoa with 26 points. And the winner, with a whopping 30.5 points?

Home Hotel’s Homemade Salsa Golf.

The casera, or house made, was the only Salsa Golf with dimension and character. It had a pronounced acid flavor that held up through the end of the bite. While the others were good, Home Hotel’s was excellent. It held its own with fries and beer.  And the only bad thing about our tasting was knowing that once we return back to California we’ll probably never be able to find Salsa Golf.

Sigh.

I suppose I’ll always have Ketchup and Mayo. But it’s just not the same.

A very special thanks to our friends at Home Hotel in Buenos Aires. I cannot say enough about the owners Tom & Patricia as well as the staff. It’s impossible to have a bad moment at this place, it’s as relaxing and chill as you want it to be. It’s nothing short of magical and you’ll instantly feel like a member of the family once you arrive.

PLUS: I’m working on getting Home Hotel’s recipe for Salsa Golf for a future post. It will be the only thing that sustains me back home in the states until we come back to Buenos Aires. Or I could buy a new carry-on for the flight home and fill it with the stuff.

I love living in California. We pay too much to live here, teeter on the brink of earthquakes and state budget emergencies, and wholeheartedly embrace political correctness as a lifestyle. Not that you could tell what we embrace, on account on those botoxed foreheads and stuff. And this is just Southern California; don’t even get me started on my Northern California Relatives. In fact, while in Santa Monica last week I encounted no fewer than three-hundred-and-forty-seven placards letting me know that I could park only on the street between the hours of 8 to 1, that I couldn’t park there because my car used gasoline, no, wait, that the spot was actually reserved for visually-impaired drivers, or that the parking meter I did actually find didn’t take money but some kind of space-aged FOB made out of recycled water bottles and–my favorite– to be quiet or not to honk or block the intersection or use peanut oil out of respect for those with allergies.

It’s really enough to make someone want to move to the IE, I tell you.

But on those moments when California does get it right, well, it’s a beautiful thing.  You could be as wacky or flamboyant as you want and no one notices. You can drink bottles and bottles and bottles of wine from your backyard. You can lose your winter coat. You can worship at the alter of vanity and spandex and feel rewarded and no one will look at you funny when you hold a soy latte and say  “I’m currently workshopping my treatment.”  And you can even make nachos out of fries.

Let me repeat that: YOU CAN EVEN MAKE NACHOS OUT OF FRIES.

I’m sure to get many comments and emails about this when I claim this is a Southern California Original. But while my research is limited, my appetite is huge. And do I care whether these things were born in San Diego or San Isidro? Not really. I’m sticking to the version of this story I’ve made up in my head that involves a taco shack, a surfer, an ounce of Blue Mystic and some rolling papers. Because really, how else would these things come to be? It’s the collision of Mexican Cuisine and an American Favorite, a big salty pileup that takes no prisoners and requires you, the eater, to really really really really want it like you’ve never wanted anything before. Because this dish isn’t for wimps, purists or those afraid of getting dirty. It is what it is and it’s freaking marvelous.

And do you really need a recipe for this? Aw, well, ok, I’ll indulge you. Grab that slab of Carne Asada and chop it ever so aggressively into small chunks of meat. Top the french fries of your choice (double-fried method for me, thankyouverymuch) with the carne and then go absolutely insane with cheese, guacamole, pico de gallo, jalapeños, queso fresco, whatever…you see where I’m going with this. There’s no rhyme nor reason. And why would you expect there to be? And while we’re still on the topic, you do have my permission to go crazy when no one’s looking and dig in and thank the great State of California for her culinary greasiness, er, I mean greatness.  Lord knows I did twice this past week.

And I don’t even smoke pot.